Ferrari window helper/accelerator kit for 70’s – 90’s Ferraris with slow windows. These do not fit all Ferrari’s.
To test your Ferrari
There are 2 variations of the electric window circuitry on Ferraris. Most are the type that are compatible with my window helpers. To determine if you have the circuit that works with these window helpers you need to first test for compatibility. You will need a 12 volt test light. By test light I mean a 12 volt bulb with 2 wires. If you touch these 2 wires across a 12 volt battery the bulb lights . Take off an inner door panel. Find the wires that go to the window motor. There are 2 wires that go to the electric window motor. If there are connections that is good. If not you will need to strip a small amount of insulation off each of the 2 wires to do the test. The two wires may also be inside a plastic tube. This tube will need to be opened to get to the two electric window wires. Ground one wire from the test light to the door. Make sure the ground is good. Turn your key on to run (no need to start the car). Put the other end of the test lead on one electric window wire and see if the bulb lights. Take that same test lead and put it on the other electric window wire and see if it lights. If the bulb does not light my window helper will work on your Ferrari. You can double check and hold the test lead on one wire and push the button up and down. The bulb should light in one direction. If you put the test light wire on the other electric motor wire the test light should light when the switch is pushed the other way.
How They Work
Typically the single biggest reason Ferrari windows from these years do not work well is because the existing electric window wiring harness does not provide a good ground to the electric window motors. The way the Ferrari electric window system works is when you push the button to go up one wire is positive 12 volts and the other wire is the ground. When you push the button to go down the polarity in these two wires is reversed. The opposite wire becomes the positive 12 volts and the other wire becomes the ground. Although there can be voltage losses in the wiring harness, switch and any connections along the way – providing a better ground will significantly improve the speed at which the windows will move. This box provides an improved ground making the window motors work much better as they will now receive more voltage and amperage. There is no added burden on the stock wiring harness. There are no detrimental effects to the stock wiring system or switches. This box senses which wire is hot and automatically makes the other wire become the ground and it directs that wire directly to the door frame. These are not always a cure-all for slow windows. You may have other problems like old dried up grease in the window lift assembly or marginal connections in the rest of the electric wiring system. This kit will not correct those types of problems. In most if not all cases the speed of the windows will increase dramatically.
How to install them: These window accelerators are very easy to install. You remove the inner door panel (just the lower section if the door panel is several pieces). Generally there is a speaker in the door. Remove the speaker. Behind the speaker will generally be the 2 wires going to the electric window. You will cut both wires and add this window accelerator to the existing wires. The black wire from the box goes to a good ground. Generally to a bolt that is close by. An installation sheet is included.
Waterproof construction. The boxes are 100% sealed. Thus they are sealed so no moisture may enter because they are now bedded in a potting material. The grounding lug is soldered on to the black ground wire providing a durable/failure free connection. Easy to install. Works very well. Everything you need is included. Nothing else to buy. Installation instructions included. You will need to have an electrical crimping pliers for the electrical terminals (to crimp the butt splices) and a heat gun for the heat shrink tubing. Borrow one or both if need be to do this installation. To connect the wires to the factory wires I include butt splices and pieces of heat shrink tube that has an adhesive/sealant inside providing a waterproof connection. I also include some tie wraps and 3M double sided tape. Each relay unit has two holes that may be used if you prefer to use screws for mounting the units.